A Pilgrim's Guide to the Holy Monastery of Saint John Kynigos, Glyka Nera: A Hidden Byzantine Treasure

My dear fellow pilgrims and honored guests, seeking the ancient beauty and spiritual depth of the Byzantine age right on the edge of modern Athens, I extend a truly profound and reverent welcome. We are journeying to the Holy Monastery of Saint John Kynigos (Kynigos means 'Hunter'), situated in the area of Glyka Nera (meaning 'Sweet Waters'). This sanctuary, dedicated to Saint John the Baptist and also historically linked to the name "Philosophers," is a stunning example of Byzantine architecture and continuous spiritual life. As your trusted spiritual guide, I am honored to provide this detailed guide to ensure your visit is conducted with utmost respect, reverence, and spiritual fruitfulness.

Note on Status: The Monastery of Saint John Kynigos is a historic foundation that was dissolved in the 19th century but has since been re-established and functions today as an active Female Monastery (Nunnery) under the Holy Metropolis of Mesogaia and Lavreotiki. Its history is closely connected to the Byzantine period.

Logistics of Reverence: Hours and Conduct

The Holy Monastery of Saint John Kynigos is an active monastic community dedicated to prayer and discipline.

The general opening hours for pilgrims are set to respect the nuns' demanding schedule. While specific hours should always be confirmed by contacting the Monastery directly, a common schedule for convents in this area is typically open in the morning, perhaps from 9:30 AM to 1:00 PM. The Monastery will observe a strict midday closure and may reopen briefly in the late afternoon, often from 4:00 PM to 6:00 PM.

Quiet hours are strictly enforced throughout the grounds. All visitors must approach the sanctuary with a spirit of profound quietude. Maintain silence or speak only in a very low whisper, recognizing the continuous flow of prayer and the sanctity of this revered place.

The Garments of Humility: Dress Code for Pilgrims

In keeping with the venerable and strict tradition of the Greek Orthodox Church, a highly modest and respectful dress code is mandatory for all who enter the holy grounds. The fundamental rule is that shoulders, arms, and knees must be fully covered.

For men, this means long trousers and sleeved shirts are required. Shorts, sleeveless tops, or athletic wear are strictly forbidden.

For women, long skirts or dresses (well below the knee or ankle) and sleeved blouses that fully cover the shoulders and arms are strictly required. Trousers or tight clothing are unacceptable. Women are also expected to cover their heads with a scarf or shawl when in the church, as a gesture of reverence.

Finding the Sanctuary: Location and Directions

The Holy Monastery of Saint John Kynigos is situated on a wooded hill on the northern edge of Mount Hymettus, overlooking the plain of Mesogeia, near the suburban area of Glyka Nera (Sweet Waters). The area is administratively part of Pallini.

To get there, you must navigate to the Glyka Nera area in East Attica. Access is easiest by car or taxi from central Athens or via the Attiki Odos highway (exit 16), which is very close by. While Glyka Nera is served by suburban buses, the Monastery itself is located on a quiet hill road; therefore, personal transport is highly recommended. Parking availability is generally sufficient in the designated area near the Monastery entrance. The walking distance from the parking area to the main courtyard and church is very short.

Permissions, Patronage, and Spiritual Roots

No formal permit is required for general day visits to the Monastery during opening hours.

The Monastery’s main dedication is to Saint John the Baptist (also known as the Forerunner). Historically, it has also been known as the "Philosophers" Monastery, or "Saint John the Hunter" (Kynigos). The spiritual story here celebrates the austere, prophetic life of Saint John, the voice crying in the wilderness. The name Kynigos (Hunter) is linked to a family member of the same name who was an early Abbot. Pilgrims visit this site seeking repentance, guidance, and the strength to follow the straight path, inspired by the great Forerunner.

Historical Depth: Founding and Narrative

The Monastery of Saint John Kynigos is a treasure of the Late Byzantine period, with its founding dating back to the beginning of the 12th century (likely around 1100s).

The story of the monastery is fascinating. It was founded by a monk from the famous Philosophos Monastery in the Peloponnese, a member of the powerful Philosophos family, hence one of its historical names. The Katholikon (main church) belongs to the architectural type of the two-columned cross-in-square church with an octagonal dome, characteristic of Byzantine Attica. The monastery continued to operate throughout the harsh Turkish occupation (1456–1833), serving as a beacon of faith and national identity. Although it was temporarily dissolved in 1833 by royal decree after the Greek Revolution, the integrity of its central Byzantine church survived, allowing it to be lovingly restored and revived as a spiritual community in the modern era.

Sacred Treasures: Icons, Relics, or Miraculous Items

The most important sacred treasures include the central Icon of Saint John the Baptist, and the well-preserved Byzantine-era architecture itself. The interior contains important wall paintings and frescoes that date mainly from the 17th, 18th, and 19th centuries, though fragments of original 13th–14th century Byzantine frescoes survive. The marble icon screen (or templo), restored in the 1960s, dates back to the early 13th century and is a remarkable piece of Byzantine art.

The Community: Nuns, Hospitality, and Conversation

This is currently an active Female Cenobitic Monastery (Nunnery). The number of nuns currently living there is a small, dedicated sisterhood committed to the traditional monastic rule.

The level of hospitality is offered with traditional monastic reverence. Visitors are welcomed. Conversations are allowed, but they must be kept brief, quiet, and strictly limited to matters concerning your pilgrimage, the relics, or spiritual questions. Long discussions are not permitted.

Stay, Services, and Giving Back

Guesthouse availability is extremely limited and generally reserved for clergy or pilgrims on a serious, short spiritual retreat. Reservation needs are absolutely essential and must be secured by contacting the Monastery well in advance. Planning to stay in the nearby suburbs (like Pallini) or Athens is the most practical choice.

Participation in liturgies or services is highly encouraged. The faithful are welcome to stand quietly in the Katholikon during the services.

The days and hours of services follow the Orthodox liturgical cycle. Divine Liturgy is held in the morning on Sunday and all major Feast Days.

There is no entrance fee to visit the Monastery. However, a recommended donation in the offering box is a traditional and vital gesture of support.

Respecting the Sanctity and Time

• Photography Rules: Regarding photography, it is strictly forbidden inside the main church and chapels, especially near the Holy Icons and Relics. You are usually permitted to photograph the exterior architecture and the courtyard, capturing the historical setting and the panoramic view. Always be discreet and never photograph the nuns without explicit consent.

• Monastery Shop & Products: A small, discreet Monastery shop is often maintained. Products available often include icons of Saint John the Baptist, prayer ropes (komvoskoinia), incense, and candles.

• Total Time Needed for a Complete Visit: To conduct a reverent visit, appreciate the Byzantine architecture, and spend time in quiet reflection, you should plan for a total time needed of approximately 1 to 1.5 hours.

Beyond the Monastery Walls and Final Admonitions

• Nearby chapels, paths, viewpoints or landmarks: The Monastery's location on the northern edge of Mount Hymettus provides a fantastic panoramic viewpoint over Athens and the Mesogeia plain. The surrounding wooded hill offers peaceful paths suitable for solitary prayer and reflection.

• Behaviour Rules for Visitors: Your conduct must be marked by the humility and respect befitting this ancient holy site. Key rules include Silence or low whispering, strict adherence to the Modesty of the dress code, approaching the icons and relics with Profound Reverence, and Respecting all signs and the privacy of the nuns.

• Feast Day and What happens during the celebration: The Monastery celebrates its main Feast Day on August 29th, the Beheading of Saint John the Baptist. The celebration on this day is a major annual event. It involves a solemn All-Night Vigil on the eve, followed by a festive Hierarchical Divine Liturgy. Pilgrims gather to honor the Forerunner, often marked by a spirit of solemn reflection appropriate to the gravity of the feast.

May your pilgrimage to the Holy Monastery of Saint John Kynigos, Glyka Nera, bless you with the light of repentance and the strength of the Forerunner.